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im being a little bit lazy am slightly embarresed


i want to remove my wheels and paint calipers..also need a clean.im after advice on

1. will a£20 trolley jack be okay.. if so which one.read about damaging panels etc.

2.where exactly is the jacking point.?

3.can i do one side (2 wheels at once) withy a trolley jack?

4.what other tools will i require, (going to borrow these off a pal)

5.will i need to get the wheels rebalanced afterwards?

alot of questions but if you guys cant steer me in the right direction then who can.dontv want to pay someone else to do a job i can do myself.would like to do it properly though


thanks steven
 

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QUOTE(c6152 @ 6 Feb 2010, 07:47 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>im being a little bit lazy am slightly embarresed


i want to remove my wheels and paint calipers..also need a clean.im after advice on
1. will a£20 trolley jack be okay.. if so which one.read about damaging panels etc.

2.where exactly is the jacking point.?

3.can i do one side (2 wheels at once) withy a trolley jack?

4.what other tools will i require, (going to borrow these off a pal)

5.will i need to get the wheels rebalanced afterwards?

alot of questions but if you guys cant steer me in the right direction then who can.dontv want to pay someone else to do a job i can do myself.would like to do it properly though


thanks steven
To answer your questions mate

1: it might do, depending if it actually fits under your ST - that can be a problem sometimes unless you drive the car onto some blocks of wood first, especially if it's lowered.

2: the jacking points recommended by Ford are just inboard of the sills behind the front wheelarch and in front of the rear wheelarch - if you look underneath you'll see the scallop in the skirt moulding where the body seam is exposed. However these points are firstly suited to the Ford oem scissor jack, you'll need a block of wood to go under there if you use a trolley jack or ideally a rubber pad.

3: not sure, seen them do it that way at Wolf but they've got decent big (and low) jacks

4: 19mm socket and wrench needed for the wheel nuts - don't forget you'll need your locking wheelnut key too. And ideally a torque wrench to tighten up the wheels properly, 110Nm for early nuts and lockers with narrow, angled washer and 130Nm for later wheel nuts where the washer is cone shaped.

5: No.
 

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I've got a reasonably cheap £25 trolley jack (2 tonne) and it works fine for this job to be honest

I don't know if any of this differs between the facelift and pre-facelift. Mine is the facelift.

My car isn't lowered (yet) but i still need need to drive it up onto some paving slabs to get the jack under the fronts. I expect I'll need two slabs once the Eibachs are fitted.

The front points are quite obvious if you get under the front and have a look. There's a beam that runs from the sill and is about 4 or 5 inches back from the wheel, I use that.
I defo wouldnt attempt to pick the whole front end up with the jack I've got. Just one side at a time for me. maybe some of the big industrial strength ones are fine?

For the backs i stick the trolley in directly from the back in the middle. Theres another obvious beam in the middle just behind the exhaust box. The whole back end picks up easy even with my lightweight jack so I do both back wheels together.

As for tools..you'll need all the stuff already mentioned by others, plus I needed a big hammer for my back wheels first time! They had clearly never been off before and were well and truly wedged on. Once the nuts were off i needed to give them a bit of encouragement. I tried kicking them but that seemed to rock the whole car on the jack so i ended up thumping the tyre bit at the bottom of each back wheel to get them off.
Watch you dont hit the alloy!

And whatever you do, make sure its on a decent level surface and do your best to stop the car moving. Chock the wheels, use your handbrake, stick it in gear..whatever is necessary
 

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Tip to help loosen the wheels if they prove to be stubborn - put the wheel nuts back on but loosen them off a bit from tight then drop the car back to the ground off the jack, let the weight of the car help do the hard work for you.
 

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That's a good bit of advice troy, I never thought of that. That would have saved me loads of effort!

I'd be careful to do it really slow though, you dont want to put loads of pressure on the studs if the wheel has started to shift slightly. If the nut isnt on enough to protect the stud from the hole in the wheel then one or both might get slightly damaged.

Am probably being a bit over cautious but there you go
 
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