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Premium Member
Alan St500
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1,713 Posts
😱 Steady on there @Bigayal, you may have committed the cardinal sin of 'copy & paste'. Methinks Mr Typo ain't gonna be happy about that. There's nothing quite like a fit of on-line pique :ROFLMAO:.
Well it’s a beginners guide to no boost 🤷🏻‍♂️ Work through the list and if it’s none of those then consider the possibility you bought a donkey and scrap it 🤣🤣🤣🤣
 

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Premium Member
ST225 - CP340
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1,191 Posts
Like above comment "how is it rude/harsh" the mentioned above was said to not work and kindly asked for any more help, its not harsh saying the copy & paste answers which many do here, like it or not, it does happen 90% of the time.

A turner really is not one for this problem as i've already took it to two that just said a sensor on which it was replaced, i've took it to ford and they found nothing wrong and wanted more money just to look at it on the ramps (yes just look and not do anything else)

Being frustrated is not in my comments as i'm calm and looking up my problem to try and fix it which a nice search on here leads to the same copy & paste then the threads are dead with nothing of any help, this is why i asked and pointed out the copy & paste, take it how you want but its not just the site change that moved people from here but the dead posts showing no real answers to anyone's problems.
Depending on where you are in the country, taking it to a MK2 specialist maybe a sensible idea. Not sure which tuners you've been too already, but places like Matt Lewis or Collins Performance generally get good feedback. Speaking personally, Collins are the only place who have been able to diagnose/fix 2 knocking issues I had with the car and the guys do know these cars well. (In saying that, I still have a warm start issue which remains unresolved, but the car works fine....)
That's not to say they could 100% fix the issue, but when you get to the point that changing the common sensors/resetting codes (and Ford diagnostics) can't resolve the issue, you're getting into the realms of more specialist diagnostics which are over and above anything on a forum is likely to be able to pinpoint 100% for you.

Whichever way you go, it's likely to cost a bit of cash (either labour or parts) to get resolved. It might be cheaper to pay Ford or a.n.other specialist to take a look and diagnose the issue properly rather than spending out on random parts that don't fix the issue - just cos Bob on Facebook said his mates, uncles, brothers, dogs, owners friend had the same issue.
 

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Premium Member
2006 ST-2 MK2
Joined
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539 Posts
Discussion Starter · #23 · (Edited)
😱 Steady on there @Bigayal, you may have committed the cardinal sin of 'copy & paste'. Methinks Mr Typo ain't gonna be happy about that. There's nothing quite like a fit of on-line pique :ROFLMAO:.
Yeah very funny "not"

Its going back to ford at another dealer, they say after the information i gave them (that is in this thread) they are thinking there is a problem in the wiring loom as it seems no power is going to the MAP sensor since rev's are going up and down on idle.

@andip85 Its a st specialist called "sprout" not sure how he got his nick name, plugged it in and tested what he could and all seemed fine, he did say the rev's going up and down could be MAP since no air leaks could be found. The other guy just down the road also said the same but throttle peddle seemed too far down but it was not a problem.
 

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Premium Member
2006 ST-2 MK2
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539 Posts
Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Maybe he grew up in Brussels.

Anyway, good luck in getting it sorted.
Could have, i told him where i got it from and even with it being his mate his said he would not trust anything from his garage as his had many cars coming to him from this guy. Says it all really.
 

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Premium Member
Mike Mk2 ST225
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2,649 Posts
Assuming you're keeping the car for the long haul and don't want to pay for diagnostics:

Order yourself a map sensor. Genuine. If you haven't already. Even if it's not the problem is useful to have and easy to replace.

I can't remember the full story of what has/hasn't been done and not going to try and remind myself now (I'm not on this forum anywhere near as much as I used to be so not keeping up to date with posts because it does seem to be fairly unhelpful when people need help now with very little going on. Maybe just because I'm not actually looking any more 🤷)

Point of that comment is maf is also useful to have if you haven't already changed it.

The sensor that I just have a "feeling" about on past experience is the fuel pressure sensor. Cheap enough. Easy enough to do yourself. Assuming the how to is still on here, that's where the forum makes itself worth it.

And if it's not any of the common sensors and nothing mechanical. You might need to consider paying someone to diagnose all the voltages and continuation of your wiring, the condition of your ECU and maybe clocks and try to narrow it down.

Chances are if you don't want to do that and continue driving sooner or later your car will throw something else to point you in the right direction
 

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Premium Member
2006 ST-2 MK2
Joined
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539 Posts
Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Assuming you're keeping the car for the long haul and don't want to pay for diagnostics:

Order yourself a map sensor. Genuine. If you haven't already. Even if it's not the problem is useful to have and easy to replace.

I can't remember the full story of what has/hasn't been done and not going to try and remind myself now (I'm not on this forum anywhere near as much as I used to be so not keeping up to date with posts because it does seem to be fairly unhelpful when people need help now with very little going on. Maybe just because I'm not actually looking any more 🤷)

Point of that comment is maf is also useful to have if you haven't already changed it.

The sensor that I just have a "feeling" about on past experience is the fuel pressure sensor. Cheap enough. Easy enough to do yourself. Assuming the how to is still on here, that's where the forum makes itself worth it.

And if it's not any of the common sensors and nothing mechanical. You might need to consider paying someone to diagnose all the voltages and continuation of your wiring, the condition of your ECU and maybe clocks and try to narrow it down.

Chances are if you don't want to do that and continue driving sooner or later your car will throw something else to point you in the right direction
Map,MAF,solenoid are all Bosch, all codes came from 7zap and the codes from the item itself, i had a bit of corrosion in the MAP connection and cleaned it but i'm not sure how it got there since in was on the MAP v5 pin as well.

I've had it plugged in at ford at 60$ and nothing came up, two st mechanics (not charged for) and no codes as well. I had a email discussion with ford and told them about what the one garage did and they've told me to take it to another one which is 30 minutes from me so they can get a good look at it, properly this time, 105$ a hour and said it should not take longer than two.
 

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Premium Member
Mike Mk2 ST225
Joined
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2,649 Posts
Fingers crossed it goes well.
I just know the fuel pressure sensor can read, and not throw any faults. But somehow the car knows it's wrong and not produce any boost. Doesn't mean it is your fault but I've seen it a few times on here and with my ex's car
 

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Premium Member
2006 ST-2 MK2
Joined
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539 Posts
Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Fingers crossed it goes well.
I just know the fuel pressure sensor can read, and not throw any faults. But somehow the car knows it's wrong and not produce any boost. Doesn't mean it is your fault but I've seen it a few times on here and with my ex's car
I'm going to change that soon unless ford say its the problem as its looking very old. I've also read that this code can also be a broken injector that is just over spraying.
 

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Premium Member
ST225 - CP340
Joined
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1,191 Posts
I'm going to change that soon unless ford say its the problem as its looking very old. I've also read that this code can also be a broken injector that is just over spraying.
Not sure where you are in the UK, but I have a MAP and MAF sensor spare (second hand, never used so they could be broken but both came off working cars) and also a full set of standard injectors. If you're local to me (Leeds/Hudds) you're welcome to borrow some/all of the above to test things before you buy new....
 

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Premium Member
2006 ST-2 MK2
Joined
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539 Posts
Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Not sure where you are in the UK, but I have a MAP and MAF sensor spare (second hand, never used so they could be broken but both came off working cars) and also a full set of standard injectors. If you're local to me (Leeds/Hudds) you're welcome to borrow some/all of the above to test things before you buy new....
Thank you for the offer but i'm in dudley, i'm getting the volt meter out today to check sensor connections while ford book me in.
 

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Premium Member
2006 ST-2 MK2
Joined
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539 Posts
Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Ok update, because i removed the fuse box to put a new cabin filter on (old one had dirt in!) i ending up with a lot of codes, i've cleared them and car is not over rev'ing. My MAP is showing 4v on all 4 pins and from what i can tell one is meant to be 12v, I've checked the MAP sensor and it still looks brand new, the green rubber ring looks like its not even touches the sides of the hole.

Battery is at 11.7v and when engine is running is at 14.4v, car feels like its got boost but it still only hits 1/4. I also have the dtc d900 e510 on dash test service but nothing on forscan or elmconfig.
 

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Premium Member
2006 ST-2 MK2
Joined
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539 Posts
Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Your battery is in pretty bad shape at 11.7V.
My son said that as well but the 14.4v when the engine was running seemed ok, would you say its dying and the alternator is just keeping it going?
 

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Administrator
Mk2 RS MP350
Joined
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25,007 Posts
The 14.4V you are seeing is just the Alternator output so yes I would say it's on its last legs.
Have a look at this:
Gas Office equipment Machine Plastic Gadget
 

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Premium Member
2006 ST-2 MK2
Joined
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539 Posts
Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Looking into a battery now, thank you alb. Halfrauds don't do bosch on their site so i think i'll have to have a look around.
 

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Premium Member
Joined
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999 Posts
Try ECP. I bought a Yuasa when I swapped mine. All good so far.
Edit:
I bought my Yuasa from Partsforallcars.com - £95 delivered
 

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Premium Member
ST225 - CP340
Joined
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1,191 Posts
Try ECP. I bought a Yuasa when I swapped mine. All good so far.
Edit:
I bought my Yuasa from Partsforallcars.com - £95 delivered
Yep Yuasa in mine at the mo - it's just started to die after 5 years. Voltage is lower than yours though and she still starts/runs ok (other than an ESP code). Have a new one to go in anyway (another Yuasa) - not saying battery won't fix your issues but it wouldn't personally be my first port of call. If you were going to change it anyway though, then no harm.
 

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Premium Member
2006 ST-2 MK2
Joined
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539 Posts
Discussion Starter · #40 ·
The battery is on the list.

Just trying to find out why i'm only getting 5v on all 4 pins of the MAP but nothing is showing up, not even a dodgy fuse.
 
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