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Fair enough...

Such a pain when people dont keep and pass on receipts for work done when they sell or p/x a car.
 

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I suppose some of the reason for wanting to go back to stock for a while is another car I've currently got. In the history file is a top-end rebuild on the engine due to a 'faulty map' it states. 12 months earlier there is a receipt in the file for a remap from someone. I think I'd rather just go back to standard, go through the car and make sure all is well, and then remap in the future.
I can completely understand your line of thought there, and if I could get hold of a completely standard car I would definitely be inclined to not remap it either and just enjoy it for what it was, knowing that it was head and shoulders above most other examples that have been butchered and badly mutilated.

One thing that should reassure you though is that even the plug and play maps from the likes of Collins, Dreamscience, Mountune etc are all quite safe, especially the newer ones. There is still the undeniable fact that a remapped car will likely wear quicker but a lot of that is due to driver behaviour and lack of mechanical sympathy.
 

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Not wishing to start an argument, but the 2.5T is basically 'de-tuned' as standard and well capable of handling the power and torque it has with just a remap (& bigger IC).

My super-reliable 13yo car being in this spec for 9 years and otherwise standard-engined shows this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
If I knew the remap was by one of the aforementioned reputable sellers I think I would be fine with that. Sadly I have no idea who mapped the car so it will always be there at the back of my mind.

I'm still tempted to go stock though and then back into remapped just to see the genuine difference. As I say as soon as my (company) car back in 2007 was run in, it was mapped by Collins Performance so I never really got to try the car as standard.

I've no concerns the ST lump isn't capable of handling the extra power and torque - although there are invoices for driveshafts etc suggesting some of the other running gear might wear out quicker. I'd just like to know the car is 100%, and then enjoy the extra performance when the time is right.

First thing though is to replace those old spark plugs and the coil that has fallen into two parts and see if it's running properly again?
 

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I'd just have it remapped by a reputable tuner who can also carry out a Boost check at the same time job done 👍🏽
I could never go back to standard .I remember my First ST starting from Scratch i thought it was the best drive ever till I put Bluefin Stage 1 on ..then wow it totally transformed the car...then it was Stage 2 then Stage 3+...then the car just comes alive like a big Lovely Roaring Tiger .....I like tigers too 😊😂😂
 

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Jason SB MK3 RS MAXD 400
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I'd just have it remapped by a reputable tuner who can also carry out a Boost check at the same time job done 👍🏽
I could never go back to standard .I remember my First ST starting from Scratch i thought it was the best drive ever till I put Bluefin Stage 1 on ..then wow it totally transformed the car...then it was Stage 2 then Stage 3+...then the car just comes alive like a big Lovely Roaring Tiger .....I like tigers too 😊😂😂
Used to love a bit of Bluefun in the Mk2 ;)
 

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Graham - mk2 stage 3
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although there are invoices for driveshafts etc suggesting some of the other running gear might wear out quicker. I'd just like to know the car is 100%, and then enjoy the extra performance when the time is right.
My OE drveshafts were changed at 125k miles. Stage 3 from around 50k.

They had been clicking for ages but it was not getting worse and they only clicked occasionally so I was in no hurry but saw a Fordpair at a good price.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
My OE drveshafts were changed at 125k miles. Stage 3 from around 50k.

They had been clicking for ages but it was not getting worse and they only clicked occasionally so I was in no hurry but saw a Fordpair at a good price.
That’s useful feedback thanks. Yours have lasted. Last ones on my car seem to have been 2018 ish (non-Ford) I think.
 

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Graham - mk2 stage 3
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That’s useful feedback thanks. Yours have lasted. Last ones on my car seem to have been 2018 ish (non-Ford) I think.
Its probably that I never do launches or cane it in 1st gear, but more importantly, it has never been lowered. My Son bought it new and I got it at a shade under 3 years old so I know that it never had driveshafts until I changed them.
 

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My car has been lowered on Eibachs for the whole 9 years I've had it and been driven hard and mostly in stop-start commuting traffic.. and the original driveshafts are stlll going strong. :p
 

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Yeah my last ST ran with the original shafts for 40k ...never launched it or in 1st or 2nd ....but then Ive been like that with all my car's .
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Bit of advice please. I’ve been busy sorting out servicing the car to get it to a fit state from which to assess the map etc.

things I’ve done:
  • cleared all codes using a code reader
  • new air filter
  • new spark plugs (properly gapped)
  • new coil to replace the broken one
  • new oil filter and fresh oil
  • replaced the bonnet locking mechanism that decided to fail whilst doing the above
  • checked the MAF sensor for cleanliness
  • Cleaned the air intake pipes of oil mist
  • Checked the pipes for splits

I wentfor a drive today and can confirm the misfire has gone (yeah!) but am surprised to see the car driving differently. It’s now boosting differently. When I jump on the throttle the boost needle goes to 3/4 and then settles at 1/2 whilst accelerating. Before the above works it would go to max (1.2 bar ish) and stay there.

could in some way the code reader have over written the stage 1 map previously on there? Surely not but the boost is definitely lower, yet the engine is much smoother and linear now. I only serviced it and cleared the codes…
 

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Are you sure you're checking it in the same gear? The max boost will vary depending on what gear the car is in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 · (Edited)
Ah, now then, that’s a good point.
I’ve just done a quick read up and consensus seems to be that holding half boost in most gears would suggest stock boost, which is what mine seems to be doing now. The boost builds with revs to 3/4 then leans off slightly to half and stays there.
For comparison I followed a Golf GTE from 40-100 (km/h of course…) and we were pretty much level pegging the whole way, with me perhaps juuusssstttt about having the upper hand.
245bhp/295lb/ft, versus 225bhp/236lb/ft in a lighter car?
Sounds about right?

thing is, is it possible to overwrite some sort of stage 1 map by clearing codes using a code reader? Odd…
 

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Jason SB MK3 RS MAXD 400
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If it’s stock it will never hit 3/4 boost. Both my MK2’s never did. When mapped yes they would.
 

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The stock map's boost max is 0.65 bar.

Any decent stage one map will hit around 1.1bar but they do vary in terms of the duration holding the max boost and at what revs it comes in. Some come in really hard and at low rpm but tail off, whilst with others it builds slower and but holds at higher rpm for longer.

But I've never heard of a fault reader clearing a map altogether from the ECU.
 
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