[teflonbilly]

The second uprated ballast arrived today.

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A quick 20 minute job.

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How much did you pay for those ballasts?

 

[teflonbilly]

More fun with the st this evening.

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I was going to use the reciprocating saw ended up going for the angle grinder approach again.

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Bloody angle grinders, as you can see from the other scars we have a history. I should have used the saw.

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Anyway the new control arm doesn't have a fitting for the auto headlight adjuster. I'm so glad I got the rivnut tool.

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Ready to fit and All back together.

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Nice one, off the top of your head what size rivnut is it for the rear arm?

 

[teflonbilly]

M10

Thanks, I won't purchase a rivnut tool because I won't use them often enough to justify the cost.

I've previously used a DIY tool made from a bolt with various nuts, washer and spanners. Will that work the same with a hex rivnut vs a round one?

 

[teflonbilly]

Using a rivnut is easier if you have the tool, when I changed my rear arms I just used a flange head nyloc nut on the inside and used a ring spanner through the bottom of the arm to hold it in place.

Considered that but even with the nut tightened right up I think it would still slop around in the big hexagonal hole and affect the headlight level?

 

[teflonbilly]

If you put a large diameter washer under the nut it would get rid of the chance of the hex hole affecting it.
Where are you? I'd happily lend you the tool if you're close.

Cheers bud but I'm the other end of the country.

I'll just make up a tool for M10 size, I've got plenty of bits. Still have to source the correct rivnut though.

 

[teflonbilly]

Just out of interest, why did you remove the starter? Is it so you can fit the crank locking pin in?

 

[teflonbilly]

Yeah, the hole that the pin fits into is right behind the starter.

Did you get the crank at TDC before you removed the cams? Its just that when you see some certain YouTube videos they appear to leave the crank at any old position.

 

[teflonbilly]

No I haven't yet, not much point at the moment as the cam timing is/was way out due to the belt jumping off.

Oh yeah I forgot that 🤦‍♂

 

[teflonbilly]

It's almost a relief to see that the waterpump was a non-OE brand, obviously not good for you though. I had the same failure on the tensioner too, twice.

 

[teflonbilly]

The water pump has always been a service item in my eyes and you'd have to be fool to think otherwise, what's happened to me is proof of that.

I don't think Ford actually specify a service interval for it, but considering how critical it is it obviously isn't a bad idea.

I think the ironic thing for you is that it is very likely that the OE part that was replaced would likely still be running fine now if it had been left in situ.

 

[teflonbilly]

I did think about one of those corded impact wrenches once, in the end I went for a Ryobi 400Nm cordless. Even with a hefty 30mm socket like yours it still wouldn't take the crank nut off until I gave it some heat from the Mapp torch. A lot of people are surprised by the power of the cheap corded versions.

 

[teflonbilly]

I was very surprised that it took it off, it took 5 or 6 seconds before it started to free up and turn. I was very dubious of the rated 500nm but it's been spot on, had it about 5 years now.

They are undoubtedly great value, I was just dubious of actually being able to get good access to the places I needed it the most due it's bulky size.

 

[teflonbilly]

How much did that head rebuild cost you? Did they give any advice on adjusting the valve clearances when you refit the cams?

 

[teflonbilly]

It cost £450. It needed 12 valves, 6 exhaust and 6 inlet. They asked for the camshafts when I took it down so they could set the valve clearances, so that's already done. The only thing I have to do is set the cam timing once the head is on and then fit the camshaft locking tool, the crankshaft is already at tdc with the crankshaft locking pin in place. So for the most part it's just a case of building it back up.

That's really good, I'm sure there are plenty of cowboys who would just fit new valves and lifters without even bothering to ask for the cams too.

 

[teflonbilly]

I had thought about doing something like that.

So we can all sit there with a clenched **** when you turn the key? 😂

 

[teflonbilly]

I remember the old days of cork gaskets :lol:

It was only a year or two back that I needed a new sump gasket for an Astra and it was cork :lol: dealer had 10 or so in stock too which surprised me somewhat.

 

[teflonbilly]

Neither can I but turning it over by hand you can see the belt lose tension (noticeably, like being able to jump) and the tensioner sticking.

I don't want a second wrecked engine on my conscience but I think what you are observing is normal in terms of the belt migrating across the sprockets. Mine did the same once I'd turned it over a few times.

 

[teflonbilly]

Is the flange of the tensioner bolt head flush against the tensioner? Or in other words is the shank of bolt definitely completely straight?

 

[teflonbilly]

Ok, did you torque the tensioner bolt down before you ran the belt round the tensioner pulley?

 

[teflonbilly]

No, once I fit belt I pulled the pin and turned it by hand several times then torqued it up.

Ok I think you need to check how the tensioner is seated then and check the bolt too.