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This is a guide only so please also remember safety at foremost and that if you are unsure about any work do seek professional ad vice/assistance before starting or continuing this task.

Plant Musical instrument Wood Tool Dumbbell


Tools/apparatus required:

15mm socket (bonus if you have both ½ and ¼ inch ratchets)

22mm spanner (open ended)
Hammer

Trolley jack

Axle stands

………oh of course the new lower suspension 'hardrace' arms!!!

Prepare by jacking the rear of the car and supporting on axle stands on a solid and flat surface best place is by the rear sub frame as you will need some clearance at the side of the vehicle to manoeuvre. Remove wheels as necessary (I just removed one at a time as I worked on O/S first then N/S after).

Just to be sure locate where the old worn out item is (for those that don't know) it's by the front end of the rear wheels, on the O/S will be just behind the fuel tank. I found the higher mounted bolts more central to the car) harder to loosen and access so perhaps its best to start with these then the lower ones nearer to the wheel.

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Fig 1

Now that you know where the lower suspension arms are you will need to loosen the bolts (which are 15mm) facing towards the front of the car (the one on the right in fig 2) the bolts facing the rear are welded (which I later found out) so you only need to loosen and tighten on one end. With a ratchet spanner I could not get enough leverage so this is where the ½ inch ratchet with 15mm socket comes in hand.

Automotive tire Bumper Rim Automotive exhaust Fender


Fig 2

It may be best to break the nut with a larger ½ inch ratchet however the O/S bolt is adjacent to the fuel tank so you won't get much clearance when you are trying to remove the bolt. I finished the rest of the loosening using the smaller ¼ inch ratchet (as the ratchet spanner was still not working well enough) with and extension on it as in fig 3. This took some time with minute movement, however you can see the bolt turning. Once loose enough you will be able to remove by hand or use the smaller spanner. There is enough clearance on the N/S mount so you should not need to swap ratchets the ½ inch ratchet should suffice.

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Fig 3

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Tread Motor vehicle


Fig 4

Now when you remove the lower bolt I found this a little easier much to do with clearance. As the suspension spring should ideally be removed for this job you may need to take off some of the pressure so that the bolt can be free from tension. Not too sure if it made much of a difference but placed a trolley jack (fig 5)under the suspension slightly raised.

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Fig 5

Now you will find that the lower bolt (fig 6) are also 15mm and should slacken and come off without too much bother. Once the bolt is fully removed get a hammer and tap the old arm out, it will not need much effort at all.

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Fig 6

Now that you have the OE spec arm removed you need to match the length with your shiny new adjustable arms. I found that one end was loose and able to turn by hand so I have only extended one side for now.

Musical instrument Wood Bicycle part Gas Auto part


Fig 7

After a few revolutions you will be able to align the new adjustable arms to the same length of the OE spec ones

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Fig 8

Ensure by matching the bolt holes when the Hardrace arm is on top the old OE arm so that there is a clean sight when peeking through the bolt holes.

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Fig 9

Water Plant Grass Wall Cylinder


Fig 10

Now to offer up your new Hardrace arms to the vehicle being careful not to turn the bolt hole ends, what you can do is hand tighten the silver bolt (I completely forgot this so excuse the pics showing this not done) from the extended end so that it does not alter from the OE spec length you have just set. I put the non-extended end (fig 11) to the inner and higher bolt hole just as it may be easier to access when getting aligned later on due to clearance. You may want to use some thread lock and a bit of grease as these bolts were quite corroded when removing. The new arm can be adjusted for the centre also when the silver bolts are loose.

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Fig 11

Do the same for the lower bolt nearer to the wheel (fig 12) you may need to press against the mount holding the bottom bolt as the spring will be pressing down on this just so you can get the bolt through fully to refit and retighten.

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Fig 12

Once the bolts are through ensure you tighten to the specified torque

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Fig 13

The job is almost done you can now see the outcome of your work from the rear of the vehicle as in fig 14

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Fig 14

The arms now need to be secured so this is where I first hand tightened the silver hex bolt and then you will need to use an open ended spanner (22mm) so that there is no movement in the new arm, as illustrated in fig 15. Now this is the length that the OE item was set however you may need to still get these professionally aligned, the left and right bolts will be adjustable so that the arms are more evenly set rather than just one end extended. I have got a service & MOT shortly so hopefully the guys can sort this out at the same time.

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Fig 15
 

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