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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I hope someone can shed some light on this strange issue I have.

Just replaced the heater matrix pipes, put it all back together, run it up, no leaks, all good. Just about to take it for a test drive, and I can't select 1st 5th or 6th, gear stick feels different, like the layout has changed?? God knows how this can happen from it being sat on the drive, then just fitting those pipes.

Someone please help 馃檹

Thanks 馃馃徑
 

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Graham - mk2 stage 3
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Check that the cables are in the carrier properly. I think it is on the top of the gearbox and you should be able to see it, or where it is from looking from the top.
 

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2019 AMG C43
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+1 for the above, sounds like you've dislodged something in that area and it sounds like the gear linkage.
 

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There is a coolant line that whilst not part of the heater matrix assembly, does run over where the shifter cables attach to the selector arm on top of the gearbox. Make sure it鈥檚 route is clear of the selector arm as it can prevent full range of motion. Have you actually tried driving the car? You won鈥檛 be able to get 5th/6th until the car reaches 10mph or so and the lockout solenoid activates preventing it going into reverse.
 

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As above. When I fitted the RS airbox in mine I had to make sure the coolant pipes didn't foul the gear selector movement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Check that the cables are in the carrier properly. I think it is on the top of the gearbox and you should be able to see it, or where it is from looking from the top.
Thanks mate yea one of the cables had come out of one of the carriers 馃う鈥嶁檪锔 baffles me how something so small can cause problems.

Next question, the bite point of the clutch was really low when I got the car a few weeks ago, it's now right at the top, had an rs clutch and flywheel less than 5k miles ago 馃馃
 

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I鈥檓 guessing the cable wasn鈥檛 put back in properly after the clutch job and just coincidentally popped out while you were doing the hoses.

The clutches are self adjusting so biting point won鈥檛 change much with wear. If it really was done not long ago it could be air not bled or getting into the clutch hydraulics somehow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I鈥檓 guessing the cable wasn鈥檛 put back in properly after the clutch job and just coincidentally popped out while you were doing the hoses.

The clutches are self adjusting so biting point won鈥檛 change much with wear. If it really was done not long ago it could be air not bled or getting into the clutch hydraulics somehow.
Yea I have the paper work for the clutch was done last year. I'll check the reservoir make sure there is enough fluid in there. Otherwise I'm stumped how It can change so quickly. It was noticbly low and quite on or off so could tell it wasn't a standard clutch instantly. Now it's the opposite, right up the top and quite soft 馃
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Can you tell if it was done by a reputable garage?
It was done by people that know these cars 馃し鈥嶁檪锔 just read somewhere about if you lift the clutch peddle with your toes that can change the bite point somehow? 馃
 

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It was done by people that know these cars 馃し鈥嶁檪锔 just read somewhere about if you lift the clutch peddle with your toes that can change the bite point somehow? 馃
The only reason I asked is that self adjusting clutches have a specific tool to fit them (if not available the bolts need to be torqued 1/4 turn at a time in a criss cross pattern). If this isn鈥檛 done the friction plate will drag and wear quickly which would likely be noticed in the pedal feel and bite point, as the self adjustment isn鈥檛 working correctly.
 

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Mk3 ST Sabre 350R
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It was done by people that know these cars 馃し鈥嶁檪锔 just read somewhere about if you lift the clutch peddle with your toes that can change the bite point somehow? 馃
This sounds like a similar symptom I had, albeit with a Mk3, which turned out to be a fatigued clutch return spring assembly. When the pedal was getting a lot of use in crawling traffic, it would get 'stuck' low down sometimes with very little travel and it was almost impossible to get into gear, so you'd have to put you toe under it to release it, and then it was ok for while. After I changed the spring assembly and lube'd it, normal service was resumed. It hasn't reoccurred since.
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