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There is no need for spring compressors. Easiest way to do rear spring is to get a second jack under the spring and jack it up. This then removes the pressure on the damper and securing bolt allowing easy removal of the bolt. Then just lower the jack and lift the spring out and fit the new spring and do in reverse order.

I may be wrong with the ST as I have not got round to doing this to my car yet but it is relevant for every other car I have ever worked on.

If this method is not possible on the ST please correct me as I will be attempting this soon on my car

Cheers
Jonny
 

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Just to add my little bit, as did mine today and also the Whiteline rear ARB. Removing the anti rollbar is not necessary, but if you do unbolt one end to allow the wheels to be independant, it is easier to then jack up each knuckle and torque the lower arm bolt back up and then allow to drop back down and refit the one drop link, you have undone. That means the rubber bush is in minimal torsional stress when the car is on the ground again.
Also, the headlight adjustment arm, I just undid the 8mm bolt on the wishbone to seperate it. It doesnt need to be undone but it saves stressing it when you hammer the strut from the knuckle.
Another struggle was the strut mount bolts under the plastics ( 3 X 13mm) I found it easier to unpop the sound tube from the engine and slide the under plastic to the passenger side to gain access, as I couldnt undo the wiper arm to give upwards access.
Other than that, in a methodical way, it is an easy job and definately worth doing. Oh and dont forget to mark the headlights before the job with tape on the garage door and to adjust afterwards. Mine were pointing low afterwards and is a 2 min job to realign if you have the datum point to do it.
Hope this helps...............
 

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Heres sumore info its for a volvo c30 but it has the same suspesnion as the focus, the only thing missing is how to access the top mount bolts due to the scuttle.
attached file)

also here is a thread form c30 owner on how to fit koni shocks, again its pretty informative, i used this a s aguide when i done the spring son my c30 when i had it and it worked well
http://www.c30world....ight=mazda+koni
 

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quick question folks I fitted eibach's front and rear today and when I have turned on the engine I am getting the A.B.S warning light and traction control light illuminated. is this because I disconnected the A.B.S sensor from the front hubs. Will these lights go out if I pull KAM fuse or can I plug my mate's Bluefin in to reset the faults. Could anyone also tell me does it take a few days for the springs to settle as my passenger rear does not look like it has dropped much I have checked to make sure everything is seated properly. Thanks Kenny
 

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quick question folks I fitted eibach's front and rear today and when I have turned on the engine I am getting the A.B.S warning light and traction control light illuminated. is this because I disconnected the A.B.S sensor from the front hubs. Will these lights go out if I pull KAM fuse or can I plug my mate's Bluefin in to reset the faults. Could anyone also tell me does it take a few days for the springs to settle as my passenger rear does not look like it has dropped much I have checked to make sure everything is seated properly. Thanks Kenny
did you switch the ignition on whilst the sensor was disconnected? if you did that is why the light is on and the fault just needs cleared
 

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just done these this morning. i did it on the drive and it took just over 3 hours would of been bit quicker if my spring compressors fitted on the rear. ended up using a bar to pop the old one out and then slip the new one in easy in the end.

got to say i have done a few suspension jobs on different cars and this was by far the easiest.
 

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Whatever you do, dont open up the top end of the rubber boot, the bearings go bloody everywhere! :facepalm:

If you do, do it carefully. I also found that spring compressors helped changing over the springs and doing up the 18mm top nut on the table.

Really good how to. Thanks.
 

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Whatever you do, dont open up the top end of the rubber boot, the bearings go bloody everywhere! :facepalm:

If you do, do it carefully. I also found that spring compressors helped changing over the springs and doing up the 18mm top nut on the table.

Really good how to. Thanks.
:lol: I found that out too. I couldn't believe it, I've never seen that kind of setup before. So, I left them all exactly where they were, and sat on the ground with a cigarette, surrounded by ball bearings whilst I came to terms with what I'd done :lol:
 

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:lol: I found that out too. I couldn't believe it, I've never seen that kind of setup before. So, I left them all exactly where they were, and sat on the ground with a cigarette, surrounded by ball bearings whilst I came to terms with what I'd done :lol:
Did exactly the same and then spent the best part of an hour looking for the one that decided to make a bid for freedom.

Bloody stupid idea if you ask me
 
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