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Jason SB MK3 RS MAXD 400
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Whats they're work like is it top notch? As I don't like any monkey working on my car
Their work is good we had the track Fiesta cams and timing belt done there have a look at their facebook page on 20 Aug 2020 you will see it. I know lots who have used them and not heard any bad reports. WelshFord members use them and it takes a lot to please them so must be good :) Nice guy the owner
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Their work is good we had the track Fiesta cams and timing belt done there have a look at their facebook page on 20 Aug 2020 you will see it. I know lots who have used them and not heard any bad reports. WelshFord members use them and it takes a lot to please them so must be good :) Nice guy the owner
Think I give them a ring tomorrow.I would take a look buddy but I don't do Facebook 👍
 

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Graham - mk2 stage 3
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It's all confusing I've rang a few places that have been suggested and they recommended not to have it done as I'm not going for stupid bhp and another place yes?
That's because nobody knows. Over the years I've seen on here bog standard engines cracking liners. Lot of people blame high temperatures but although I'n no engineer the theory that it is due to the top of the cylinders flexing a tiny amount over time starts the cracking makes the most sense to me. The block mod is to prevent this flexing where the top of the block is weak due to a groove going across between the cylinders as part of the coolant circulation.

Arguably big turbos will increase cylinder pressures even if RS pistons are fitted so it does seem to point towards big power being associated with cylinder cracking, but that does not account for the stock and mildly tuned engines cracking liners.
 

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Mike Mk2 ST225
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I still think the narrow part next to the cylinder is a hot point, and mine cracked not long after upgrading radiator- freezing water coming in as the thermostat opened and cooling the narrow part rapidly killed it.

No proof just theory
 

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Graham - mk2 stage 3
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I still think the narrow part next to the cylinder is a hot point, and mine cracked not long after upgrading radiator- freezing water coming in as the thermostat opened and cooling the narrow part rapidly killed it.

No proof just theory
That's interesting but that is due to low temp water hitting a hot spot, so for me it is not the high temps causing it but the cold temp of inlet water. Having said that, I doubt if water entering the engine is freezing as the circulation will keep it moving through the rad too quickly.
 

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Mike Mk2 ST225
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That's interesting but that is due to low temp water hitting a hot spot, so for me it is not the high temps causing it but the cold temp of inlet water. Having said that, I doubt if water entering the engine is freezing as the circulation will keep it moving through the rad too quickly.
In theory it's all of the above-
Increase the power makes more heat.
Thin metal becomes a hot spot.
Thermostat opens (I mean for the first time in the cycle, it's kept closed whilst the block is warming and you can see the coolant temps instantly drop about 10c when it opens on my car.
"Fresh" cold water passes through the block and causes thin metal to cool quickest.
Heats back up faster as temperatures stabilise.
Then everything equalises, with my bigger radiator you can still see when the thermostat opens, especially when it's literally freezing out but the system is fairly stable once it's warmed up so shouldn't be a problem.

Constant hot cold cycles can fatigue it- I'm pretty sure mine failed after I needed to give a bit more power to get going before a full warm up so potentially boost and fire caused it to be hot(Ter) then thermostat opened and shocked it...

Booting a tuned car will create a higher peak temperature and the colder it is out side the cooler the new coolant will be...

Who knows. It sounds possible though.
My logic is still if you let it warm and cool properly, you shouldn't have an issue. It's just if it's actually possible to do that in reality 😂
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
It's just all seems a mine filed of what is to do for the best.Its not that I'm running the car on a shoe string as well.maintained if it needs anything it's done.always warmed up and cooled down properly and give it a booting when I can (no speed cameras lol).it's just if anything catastrophic goes wrong then it another St up for spares or repairs don't want this to happen
 

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Graham - mk2 stage 3
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It's just all seems a mine filed of what is to do for the best.Its not that I'm running the car on a shoe string as well.maintained if it needs anything it's done.always warmed up and cooled down properly and give it a booting when I can (no speed cameras lol).it's just if anything catastrophic goes wrong then it another St up for spares or repairs don't want this to happen
I don't think that the block mod in itself does any harm. Had mine dome at 79k and now on 135k miles. Running stage 3 since the block mod.
 

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Mike Mk2 ST225
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The only real debate is if it helps.

I think if it's done properly it'll increase the volume of material and help with the hotspot/coldspot theory.

My block has been linered and doesn't have the space between anyway so don't see any harm on that front.

The standard attitude has always been if you're doing head gasket may as well get it done. If you're not then there's not much reason to worry about it.

If you love the car and it does go wrong you could always get a linnered block. Or have it resleeved seems to be a thing more so now than when mine went.
 

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Graham - mk2 stage 3
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Thing is though, in the 14 years I've been on here there has been very few engines that have had the block mod reported to have cracked a liner. In fact I can only recall one and the block mod on that car was not done correctly. In the pictures of the stripped engine, the shims were loose!
 
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