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This is what I removed from mine about 12 days ago.... its the FV4T bit.

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Replacement was a few quid though! I went for the Lucas one (I worked in the starter/alternator recon trade when I left school for some years and always rated Bosch or Lucas stuff.... granted it's a few years ago I left the trade and equipment has moved on a bit!)

I'm honestly not sure if some of the later cars have a smart alternator on though... in that case it would be a completely different unit! if it just has a battery wire and warning light wire it would probably be the same one. If it has a battery wire and a plug with 3 wires coming from it then it's a smart alternator. Mines a 15 plate... I think im right in saying yours is too Steve?

Are you changing it yourself?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
This is what I removed from mine about 12 days ago.... its the FV4T bit.

View attachment 909536

Replacement was a few quid though! I went for the Lucas one (I worked in the starter/alternator recon trade when I left school for some years and always rated Bosch or Lucas stuff.... granted it's a few years ago I left the trade and equipment has moved on a bit!)

I'm honestly not sure if some of the later cars have a smart alternator on though... in that case it would be a completely different unit! if it just has a battery wire and warning light wire it would probably be the same one. If it has a battery wire and a plug with 3 wires coming from it then it's a smart alternator. Mines a 15 plate... I think im right in saying yours is too Steve?

Are you changing it yourself?
Hi Gaz, thank you for your reply that's perfect!

Yeah mine is a 2015 ST and i will be doing it myself. If you have any tips etc for the change that would be really appreciated!
 

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Hi Gaz, thank you for your reply that's perfect!

Yeah mine is a 2015 ST and i will be doing it myself. If you have any tips etc for the change that would be really appreciated!
YVW mate... it's a faffy job to get to the alternator... but once you're into it, then it's straightforward to swap! Im just about to have some dinner, then will post a few bits and pieces up in a bit! (I'm off with covid atm... done well to go 2 1/2 years until I got it!)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
YVW mate... it's a faffy job to get to the alternator... but once you're into it, then it's straightforward to swap! Im just about to have some dinner, then will post a few bits and pieces up in a bit! (I'm off with covid atm... done well to go 2 1/2 years until I got it!)
No worries Gaz, thanks!

Sorry to hear you have Covid, hope you get well soon! I managed to swerve it till march this year so 2 years wasn't bad going. Took about a week and a half from first symptoms to test negative and felt well enough to function properly again before then, but it was a few months to fully recover!

I'm having to go for a used unit as new prices are way out of my budget at the moment unfortunately and i'm seeing some listed under the part number FV4T10300MC, This part number seems to be newer units. Does anyone know if this would work? I would rather a newer/lower mileage unit than just fit another similar age/mileage one to mine and risk it going again soon.
 

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No worries Gaz, thanks!

Sorry to hear you have Covid, hope you get well soon! I managed to swerve it till march this year so 2 years wasn't bad going. Took about a week and a half from first symptoms to test negative and felt well enough to function properly again before then, but it was a few months to fully recover!

I'm having to go for a used unit as new prices are way out of my budget at the moment unfortunately and i'm seeing some listed under the part number FV4T10300MC, This part number seems to be newer units. Does anyone know if this would work? I would rather a newer/lower mileage unit than just fit another similar age/mileage one to mine and risk it going again soon.
Thanks Steve, I tested positive on monday...though was negative saturday and sunday when I tested - I'd been with my dad on friday and he tested positive saturday morning! I'm still positive as I type this but heyho!

Yeah they're not cheap are they! I missed out on a good used one locally which kind of forced my hand to having to spend!!

I'm not sure about that newer one... it does look the same unit however!
 

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Ok here we go!

Jack the front right corner up and remove the wheel and the wheel arch liner (loads of youtube vids on this) it's held in by several push pins and a few torx bolts.

Engine cover off and battery disconnected... you're going to have to remove the fuel filter cover and housing next... I'll let the man who knows more than most about these engines explain...

- from about 2.50 in...you wont be taking the top of the black plastic housing off - the filter can stay inside and intact.
The fuel line that goes to the rail is particularly fiddly - mine was a right ****** to get back in... especially in the rain and fading light! As Alan Howatt suggests, go and have a cup of tea and a think!

I've just found this video on youtube too which is actually a pretty good guide video... yes it's on a kuga, but it's the same engine thats in our cars and the vast majority of it applies to them too.

The sensor that fits to the side of the filter housing is particularly fiddly..again be patient and take your time on that!

You will definately need a magnet of some form to get the two nuts out of the bottom of the filter bracket... you dont want to be dropping those! incidentally when I put the bottom right one back in.. it was a nightmare to get it located onto the thread... so I stuck a bit of masking tape onto the top of the nut and forced the socket over it.. the socket was effectively stuck to the nut then.. so no chance of dropping it (would be just my luck for it to fall into the new alternator!) whilst finding the thread and tightening... the bit of tape will find its way out at some point!

Once the new alt was in, I actually put a cloth over it to avoid dropping anything into it during reassembly.

Once the new alt is in and you come to refitting the auxilary belt (I fitted a new one), you can actually turn the tensioner fully clockwise and drop a small drill bit... I think I used around a 4mm into a hole on it to hold it in position whilst you route and fit the belt correctly and then take out the drill bit.

I fitted my alt to find that the cap on it wasn't quite right for ford fitment... check this on yours it could save you some time.. though should be ok having come from another car that was similar!
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Differential Auto part Bumper


the shaded area on the B+ post restricted the wiring loom from following its natural line and would have stretched the loom if I'd have turned it through 90 degrees to fit in from the side... the old one looked like this...
Machine Auto part Air gun Titanium Differential


So I switched the plastic caps between the two units leaving the old cap on the new unit - easy fix, just remove the two nuts...
Automotive tire Font Computer hardware Machine Crankset


One thing I considered on mine was whether or not to do the BMS reset... generally only gets done when replacing the battery.. but as the battery had become quite discharged I wasn't sure what to do! I didn't in the end but food for thought maybe!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok here we go!

Jack the front right corner up and remove the wheel and the wheel arch liner (loads of youtube vids on this) it's held in by several push pins and a few torx bolts.

Engine cover off and battery disconnected... you're going to have to remove the fuel filter cover and housing next... I'll let the man who knows more than most about these engines explain...

- from about 2.50 in...you wont be taking the top of the black plastic housing off - the filter can stay inside and intact.
The fuel line that goes to the rail is particularly fiddly - mine was a right ** to get back in... especially in the rain and fading light! As Alan Howatt suggests, go and have a cup of tea and a think!

I've just found this video on youtube too which is actually a pretty good guide video... yes it's on a kuga, but it's the same engine thats in our cars and the vast majority of it applies to them too.

The sensor that fits to the side of the filter housing is particularly fiddly..again be patient and take your time on that!

You will definately need a magnet of some form to get the two nuts out of the bottom of the filter bracket... you dont want to be dropping those! incidentally when I put the bottom right one back in.. it was a nightmare to get it located onto the thread... so I stuck a bit of masking tape onto the top of the nut and forced the socket over it.. the socket was effectively stuck to the nut then.. so no chance of dropping it (would be just my luck for it to fall into the new alternator!) whilst finding the thread and tightening... the bit of tape will find its way out at some point!

Once the new alt was in, I actually put a cloth over it to avoid dropping anything into it during reassembly.

Once the new alt is in and you come to refitting the auxilary belt (I fitted a new one), you can actually turn the tensioner fully clockwise and drop a small drill bit... I think I used around a 4mm into a hole on it to hold it in position whilst you route and fit the belt correctly and then take out the drill bit.

I fitted my alt to find that the cap on it wasn't quite right for ford fitment... check this on yours it could save you some time.. though should be ok having come from another car that was similar! View attachment 909540

the shaded area on the B+ post restricted the wiring loom from following its natural line and would have stretched the loom if I'd have turned it through 90 degrees to fit in from the side... the old one looked like this...
View attachment 909541

So I switched the plastic caps between the two units leaving the old cap on the new unit - easy fix, just remove the two nuts...
View attachment 909542

One thing I considered on mine was whether or not to do the BMS reset... generally only gets done when replacing the battery.. but as the battery had become quite discharged I wasn't sure what to do! I didn't in the end but food for thought maybe!
Wow that's a really detailed description, thank you man. Hopefully one that will help others coming across this thread in the future too! I love Alan Howatt's videos too he's so knowledgeable on these engines!

So i just found out the FV4T10300MC part number should be fine and have found one from a 2019 car with only 16k miles on for £50. Bargain in my eyes compared to new!

Thanks again Gaz
 

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Wow that's a really detailed description, thank you man. Hopefully one that will help others coming across this thread in the future too! I love Alan Howatt's videos too he's so knowledgeable on these engines!

So i just found out the FV4T10300MC part number should be fine and have found one from a 2019 car with only 16k miles on for £50. Bargain in my eyes compared to new!

Thanks again Gaz
Hey you're welcome mate! let us know how you get on!

Yeah Howatts the man... he certainly knows his stuff.

Thats a cheap alternator.. happy days.
 
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