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Discussion Starter · #122 ·
I started working on the manifold this afternoon.
So I bought a cheap inlet manifold that looked far better in the pictures than it did coming out of the box. The previous owner obviously had a fetish for silicone as all the gaskets had it plastered both sides and all around the ports.
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I stated with some gentle heating to loosen the bond then with a scraper pealed off the mix of gasket and sealant. Then with a wire wheel cleaned up the mating surfaces. I also started trying to clean up the manifold but with the angles and odd shapes there's lots to miss so I'll be sending it off to be aqua blasted.
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Now onto the fun part, I've got a mk1 2.0 mondeo throttle body that I've had modified to fit the 1.7 manifold. So the manifold will need opening up a bit to get rid of the step between the throttle body and manifold port.
One problem is a gasket, the original puma gasket is no longer available and the 2.0 mondeo gasket (also incredibly hard to come by) has the idle opening on the opposite side (which you'll see from the picture). Thankfully a guy on ebay still makes them out of that awful smelling gasket paper, which will allow me to make a template and make my own with the hole on the correct side.
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I've used a sharpie to mark out how much it needs opening up by, it's around 1.5mm all round.
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Discussion Starter · #124 ·
I have no idea why some people smother silicone over everything :mad:

I was saying in my head that manifold is shouting out to be blasted.

Will you be getting the car remapped once you are done with the engine mods?
I've already got the ford racing puma map file tucked away so once it's all done I'll stick that on and see how things go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #125 ·
Carrying on. I fit the now ported manifold and 2.0 throttle body.
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The standard 1.7 throttle body on the left and the polished and modified 2.0 zetec throttle body on the right.
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A big improvement in low down torque and the flat spot before the vvt kicks in at 4500rpm and general improvement throughout the rev range.
A few weeks later I finished replacing all of the sensors. A new ait, power steering oil pressure sensor (which has an effect on the idle speed and causes the revs to hold at 1200 when coasting or stopping). I also fit a new genuine maf, these are now impossible to get as they've no longer available from ford thankfully I managed to source one that had sat on a shelf since 2002.
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Discussion Starter · #126 ·
An obvious sign ford are starting to cheap out on thongs, the original brass air intake temperature sensor and the new fiber/plastic one. Ironically the cheaper aftermarket sensors are still brass.
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The oil pressure sensor was an absolute nightmare to remove, it fits into a section of pipe right on a bend with a rubber hose the other side. This makes it almost impossible to get anywhere to grip onto to stop the pipe twisting or bending, and having been there for 22 years certainly didn't help.
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The puma is almost ready for the next modification, just need to replace the original fuel pump to ensure the correct fuel pressure and delivery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #127 · (Edited)
Missed from the previous post. I also replaced the gearbox speed sensor. Its a bit of a fiddly job but made easier with the battery and box removed, also it was only held in by the last couple of threads which would probably explain the random erratic speed reading.
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The speed sensor I removed was a generic ebay part and had lots of marks that look to be plier or vice grip marks and it looks like it was plugged in before fitting as the wires were very twisted. I replaced with a genuine ford sensor and now have a nice smooth speedo.
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I also replaced the poly bushed gearbox torque link with a vibratechnics one.
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Discussion Starter · #129 ·
Nice car you have there!

Shame it is written 1.7 L for displacement so it cannot go in the 1.6 L racing class - it would be a goooood candidate for hobby racing especially for slalom
Plenty do use the 1.6 version for rallying and auto testing I think there's a dedicated racing series for the 1.7 as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #132 ·
This arrived today, so i guess thats this weekend sorted.
I found a complete wizards of nos kit on ebay new and unused with the bigger 11lb bottle. As a bonus it had a minimax progressive controller in the box too. This allows nitrous pressure to be built up over a period of seconds instead of the full hit when the pulsoids are activated, meaning more nitrous can be run in a safer way. In all it would have cost nearly £1400 new but managed to get it for £750.
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The bottle looks much bigger in person, may be a bit of a squeeze in the boot of the puma.
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Discussion Starter · #134 ·
Started on the nos install this afternoon, I'm still waiting for a few bits to arrive so just doing easy bits for now.

First off the bottle. Due to the way the boot floor is in the puma and from what I've read and been told, the bottle will have to be mounted lengthways instead of behind the rear seat. Id have liked to get ot closer to the side but due to the shape of the boot any further away from the center wouldn't allow the valve to be turned. So it's going to be a slightly less functional boot but at least there's a few cm clearance top and bottom.
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Marked up and pilot holes drilled.
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Holes taken out to 9mm for the rivnuts. The kit actually comes with self tappers to secure the bottle mount but I'm not really a fan of self tappers for securing a fair bit of weight.
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Before fitting the rivnuts I painted the holes inside and out.
Mount trial fitted.
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I then removed the mount and put some holes in the boot carpet then refit the mount.
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After that I fed the Nitrous feed line behind the rear seat and following the wiring loom along the side of the seat under the carpet and into the engine bay. The only other part I could fit is the nos controller and start some of the wiring. I bent the brackets into the correct shape to allow fitting in the glove box.
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I'm going for a but if a stealthy setup with as much hidden away as possible. The arming switch will be in the Ash tray and I'll be using a spare fog light button woth a red led instead of the yellow one to take the place of the button blank and have that lit when the system is armed.
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Discussion Starter · #135 · (Edited)
Some more work on the nos install today.
First off I fit the new colder spark plugs, I went for some denso itv16tt iridium plugs.
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The pulled the injectors to ultrasonic clean them and fit new seals and filters.
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Got to love the old denso side feed injectors.
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Once the injectors and fuel rail were back on, I fit the schrader valve to 5mm adapter for the fuel supply.
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I tried a few places around the engine bay for fitting the pulsoids without drilling the bodywork.
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Eventually settling with this using a home made bracket. Now I need to finish mocking up the fuel and nitrous lines then finish the wiring.
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Discussion Starter · #137 ·
I've done a bit more on the puma this afternoon.
I fit the micro switch to the accelerator pedal, although I'm not happy with it (still it works and does the job) so I'll probably buy a throttle position sensor kit that takes the signal from the tps.
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I went for the first trial of the system with the wiring out and power and earth taken directly from the battery.
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A quick video of the pulsoids firing and the minimax controller working. The sound is poor but if you turn up rhe volume you can hear the pulsoids.
After the testing I started routing the wiring around the back of the dash and into the engine bay and finding a switched live feed.
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Now I'm just waiting for the wiring loom tape to arrive so I can keep the engine bay looking tidy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #140 ·
Almost finished the nos install.
This evening I finished all the wiring and started wrapping it with loom tape. I used the original battery earth point as its close to where yhe wiring is routed.
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Fitted the crossfire injector to the induction hose.
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All the pipes are cut to length, just waiting for more heat insulation tubing to arrive then I'll tighten them up to seal the compression fittings.
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I've also fitted a new crankcase breather hose as the old one was getting hard and brittle.
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